Northern Thailand was absolutely amazing, with so much to see and the best food I’ve ever eaten. My route was a little mixed up because I cut over to Laos in the middle of it, but by the end I had explored Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and Pai.
Here are some practical tips on exploring the best parts of all these cities:
Chiang Mai
Wat Chedi Luang
I know what you’re thinking - you have seen enough temples. In Thailand they occupy almost every block, and for many of them it feels like you’re seeing the same work of art over and over.
This one, however, was worth the walk.
From the street, it is a unique temple made of wood, and when I went it was full of students praying. Directly behind the temple is a massive golden statue, and even after so many temples I was impressed.
Elephant Jungle Sanctuary
While I chose not to visit the elephants (I have spent time with them in South Africa), most people visiting this region do. It can be difficult to decipher which organizations actually care for the elephants, and which just use the elephants for profit.
As you will hear over and over from other backpackers, the first thing to look for when selecting a tour company is to make sure the elephants are not being ridden. It’s not that the elephants can’t carry the weight of a human - rather the training methods used to make elephants carry people are inhumane.
Tours cost approximately $50 USD.
Zoe In Yellow Bar
If you are interested in partying, Zoe In Yellow is the most popular bar in town. Drinks are expensive, but people are friendly and the energy makes for a great night.
North Gate Jazz Club
This club opens at 8, and you should plan to be there at 8! Grab a table early because the crowd quickly fills the bar, sidewalk, and street every night.
Great live music played by locals.
Transport Advice: Chiang Mai Airport to Downtown
Red truck-shuttles are parked outside the airport most hours of the day. For 30 baht per person, the truck dropped off some tourists downtown and dropped me off right at my hostel. So easy, I couldn’t believe it!
If you arrive at a difficult hour you may have to haggle with taxi drivers.
Transport Advice: Bus Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai
The bus station is located of of Kaeonawarat road, and is a short tuk tuk ride ride from the city. I paid 150 baht / $5USD for the tuk tuk, but there is probably a bus that could bring you there cheaper.
Once at the bus station, I recommend GreenBus for transport. This company was recommended by other blogs online and I had a positive experience with them as well. Bus tickets can be booked online at https://12go.asia/ but in a classic Deena fashion I bought them in person instead.
Online I was expecting to pay 266 baht / $8, but in person paid only 166 baht / $5.
The bus to Chiang Mai was 4 hours long, and mine was really spacious with comfortable leather seats.
Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai can be a day trip from Chiang Mai, but I decided to spend the night as I was headed to Laos.
White Temple
This city is known for The White Temple, a beautiful clay structure embellished with mirrors. Construction of this temple began in 1997 and is still incomplete, but despite its youth I found it well worth the trip.
Admission was 50 baht ($1.75USD), and the dress code was conservative but not strict.
Getting to the White Temple:
From Bus Station 1, you can take a bus to the White Temple for 20 baht ($.63). Just get on the bus (a picture of the temple is pasted to the windshield) and the driver will come around to collect money later.
My bus left at 10:20am. After about one hour at the temple, I waited on the highway near the temple for a bus or taxi to take me back to the city for 20 baht.
Read here about how to get to Luang Prabang, Laos via the two day slow boat that embark near Chiang Rai.
Pai
The best way to get around Pai is by renting a scooter - I found one for 100 baht ($3.33 USD) for 24 hours. You will also need half a tank of gas for 50 baht.
The police will probably not stop you in the city, I haven’t heard of anyone who was ticketed in Pai, but if you leave Pai for another city you will be ticketed at the checkpoints.
Tickets are 500 baht and guarantee that you will not receive another ticket for 3 days. Easy as that.
Here are the places I went to on my bike:
Hot Springs
Admission is 300 baht ($15 USD) relatively expensive, but well worth the experience. Early in the morning, the air is still cool and the baths feel amazing, with steam rolling off of them into the forest. By the afternoon the springs are packed, so get there early!
In addition to swimming in the pools, 80 degree Celsius pools upstream offer a place for you to cook eggs. Bring eggs with you if you plan ahead, otherwise you can buy 6 eggs for 50 baht. Baskets are provided for you to put the eggs in, and long sticks to push them into the water.
Put the eggs in right when you arrive, then go downstream where the hot and cold water are mixed to relax for an hour before retrieving the eggs.
Pai Canyon
The canyon is free to enter, but a quick visit if you go midday. The sun is scorching by noon and there is little shade so a proper hike is not appealing, but climbing to the first viewpoint is not difficult and beautiful.
Exploring the Surrounding Area
The best part of being on a bike is just that - enjoying the ride. Take a drive to the I AM PAI sign, down curvy roads in the south, or even the waterfalls in the surrounding area. See what you can find!
The free app Maps.me provides data-less directions to attractions in the area, including reviews from other travelers.
Night Market
After you return your bike, the night Market is hands down the best place to find dinner. Food and souvenir stands line the entire road; the quesadilla, donut, and health smoothie stands were my favorite!
Cooking Class
This was one of my favorite things I did in Pai! For 700 baht, I spent the evening learning to make Pad Thai, Papaya Salad, Coconut Chicken Soup, and Red Curry - all of the Thai food staples!
Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery
Two hours north of Pai, via the bus to to Mae Hong Song, the Wat Pa Tam Wua Forest Monastery welcomes tourists to join them in meditation and Buddhist education.
I chose to spend three days at the temple, and elected to go completely silent along with about half of the attendees. The retreat is free, and includes accommodation and two meals per day (the rest of the day is fasting).
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