Now I am not a city girl - but I absolutely loved Hanoi. I have learned that this city is a fan-favorite among may backpackers! I stayed for two weeks laid up with a motorbike injury, but there was so much to do that I didn't mind. My exploration included the Vietnam War History Museum, the Women's Museum, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the infamous railroad tracks road, the Note Coffee (my favorite!), and street food dinner every night at a classic Vietnamese plastic chair diner. Plus cheap beer and the most addicting sandwiches of all time!
Vietnam War History Museum
As an American, it was incredibly interesting to learn about our war from the Vietnamese perspective. The museum explored their entire history of war, and I was shocked to see that French colonization, WWII, and the American-Vietnam war overlapped. This country has been a war zone for a long time - four different countries tried to occupy all in a narrow time frame.
I had recently been reading the classic novel The Quiet American by Graham Greene, which takes the role of the French perspective during French occupation of Vietnam prior to the Vietnam-American war. Very interesting to experience both sources of information simultaneously.
The Women’s Museum
Although much smaller than the war museum, this modest building explains Vietnamese family traditions that I wouldn’t have otherwise known. Marriage and family practices, child rearing beliefs, and traditions were well explained.
My favorite part of the museum, however, was an entire floor dedicated to the role of women in the Vietnamese liberation movements that have been persistent in the last century. Women were actively involved in the war as spies, road construction workers, and even generals. It was interesting to focus specifically on their war efforts.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
After some time at the war museum, it becomes clear how important President Ho Chi Minh was to the Vietnamese people. This war hero led the Vietnamese to independence despite the aggression of major world powers.
His face is on every piece of currency and the city formerly known as “Saigon” now bears his name.
His resting place is free to visit, but we were unable to explore inside.
Railroad Tracks Road
Twice per day, a train comes hurtling down the tracks on this impressively narrow road - less than one meter of space on each side as it drives through. The tracks were a lovely place to explore and can be added to any adventure on that side of the city.
The Note Coffee
I loved this place so much that I went three times!
Vietnamese coffee, egg coffee, and coconut coffee are all must-drinks while visiting Vietnam. It is rumored that during a milk shortage one barista decided to replace the milk with egg, and it was such a hit that it became famous in Hanoi. While Vietnamese coffee was not my favor flavor, the coconut coffee (almost a milkshake) has become my new favorite drink.
Dine at a Restaurant with Plastic Chairs
Although I was wary at first, it quickly became clear that the best food you can find in Vietnam is $2USD and sold at tiny pop up restaurants that use child-size chairs and tables. Vietnam does not require a permit to sell food, so everyone opens mini-restaurants on the street selling one dish. (Pho is the Vietnamese classic!)
It should be worth mentioning that in three months I have never gotten really sick from the food, but the stalls certainly don’t follow western standards of sanitation.
5000 Dong Beer
On Dông Thái street (and probably throughout the city) beer is sold out of kegs on the street for $.19 USD per cup. Unreal! Pull up a tiny plastic chair and enjoy - until the police roll through. When the police drive by, everyone must stand up and the beer distributors quickly pack up all the plastic chairs and hide the beer. Once the police have passed, the chairs go back out and you can sit again.
Apparently it is illegal to sell alcohol on the street like that - such a crazy experience. That was my Christmas Eve!
Eat Banh Mi
Banh Mi is a fan favorite for tourists and Vietnamese people alike. It is sold out of carts on every corner, and is ultimately just a small baguette stuffed with carrots, cucumber, butter, and egg/meat. They are an easy fast food, and delicious. I have eaten enough for a lifetime on this two month trip!
Bus to the Airport
Just in case it’s useful! There is a bus stop located at 3 Hang Muoi, and every 30 minutes bus #86 will take you the 1.5 hour ride to the airport. The bus costs 35k dong and is extremely easy to use.
Taxis the same distance will run you approximately 200k dong. Use the Grab app (Asian Uber!) to request these taxis.
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