Day 22: Da Nang
Today we hiked Marble Mountain, which was 10x cooler than I thought it would be. The mountain is a sprawling complex of things to explore, including five caves, multiple large temples, and lot of beautiful marble statues. Mak even carried a propane tank up half the mountain for a tired looking monk!
For 40k dong ($2) we spent the afternoon taking photos of ancient Pagodas (temples) and crawling around the caves.
Day 23: Da Nang - Hue
103km / 64mi
The Hai Vân Pass is possibly the most popular place for tourists to motorbike in Vietnam - lots of our friends rented bikes just to experience this beautiful pass.
Of course when we went it was heavy rain and even heavier fog, but the view as we drive up the pass was absolutely gorgeous.
Although I spent this particular stretch trying to not skid out my bike on the tight gravelly corners, on a sunny day I am certain this ride would be a highlight.
Day 24: Hue
Hue is a vibrant city right along the Perfume River. It gets its name from flowers falling from the orchards upstream in the fall, giving the river a pleasant aroma. (I did not smell this, but everything in Hue smells like rain right now.)
We spent the day exploring the city and trying local food. Banh Mi has become a fast favorite!
Served at restaurants and in food carts, for $1-2USD this sandwich is stuffed with eggs, meat, lettuce, and sauce. A great way to start the day!
We also staked out a local restaurant, best indicated by the tiny child-size red chairs that customers sit in. For $2-3USD fried rice is served out of a large pot with your choice of meat or egg. This is our trick for traveling for such a long time!
Day 25: Hue
Today we drive to Hue’s Imperial City, located in the center of town. For 150 dong ($7USD) we were able to explore the former capital of this region. The architecture was absolutely gorgeous, and fun to explore even in the rain.
Day 26: Hue
Today the weather finally cleared, and we were able to explore the abandoned waterpark in Hue. While this has boomed into a popular tourist attraction in recent years, you still must bribe the guard to enter - and some of my friends got turned away.
For 50k Dong ($2.50USD) per motorbike we were able to drive into the waterpark that opened in 2004 but ran out of funding only two years later.
If you have a drone, this is an awesome place to bring it!
Day 27: Hue to Dong Ha
71km / 44mi
Today we set off for Phong Nha, but things did not go to plan. I thought my speedometer dying twenty minutes in would be the craziest thing that happened, until a goose lady cut across traffic lanes and I watched my traveling companion fly off his bike and skid across the median.
It was terrifying. At lease fifty Vietnamese people gathered around, and nobody spoke English. Apparently the woman had pre-existing back problems and was taxied to the hospital. Finally someone who spoke English let us know that the police were coming, and that we should try to negotiate with the family for a settlement rather than having them pursue a proper lawsuit.
And so began our five hour delay in the police station. We called the Style bike company helpline and they translated our side of the story and texted Mak during negotiations to help him get the bike back. Meanwhile, I was motorbiking to the nearest city to withdraw cash from a functioning ATM.
Mak was able to negotiate the settlement, avoid the fine for being unlicensed, and drive away in his functional bike with only bruises and light road rash
We got lucky.
Day 28: Dong Ha - Phong Na
137 km / 75 miles
After spending the night in a nearby hotel, we stopped by a mechanic to get an oil change and check on the bikes. The mechanic used a crowbar to straighten out Mak’s bent foot brake, and for $4USD he replaced the wire to fix my speedometer.
We arrived in Phong Nha with no further issues, and officially crossed into Northern Vietnam. The landscapes are becoming more beautiful already - I cannot wait to see what adventures northern Vietnam holds for us!
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